Showing posts with label Cooking. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Cooking. Show all posts

Friday, September 03, 2010

Nate the Great (3/30)

Nate the Great,as you may have read yesterday, was more or less the muppet-baby cousin to Sherlock Holmes. Three or four feet tall, with accordingly sized hat and trenchcoat. Somewhere between "Firefighter" and "Astronaut", I went through a period in which my aspirational career was "Detective". I can no longer remember whether this was inspired by watching dubbed episodes of "Les Intrepides" on TVO (and other detective shows of its ilk), or if that was a symptom rather than the cause. In either case, besides his vocation, there was one other talent possessed by Nate the Great to which I aspired: the ability to make onesself pancakes. Nate would, when pondering a particularly difficult case, often return home and make himself a batch. I was always a little jealous that he could just make them himself; it didn't matter that he was ficticious - I wanted to be able to do it, too!


Fast-forward who-knows-how-many years, and I eventually learned from my father (as did he from his father before him) the process by which one concocts Dutch pancakes, or Pannekoeken. Since moving to Nova Scotia, I've run into more than a few people who insist on calling these "crépes", because "pancake" here seems to refer exclusively to the fluffy kind. Weird. What I am going to do today is teach you how to make your Very Own panekoeken!


First, let's talk equipment. You're going to want:


Mixing Bowl and Sturdy Fork


  • A mixing bowl, and a sturdy fork


Cast Iron Skillet


  • A cast iron skillet


Canola Oil


  • Canola Oil


The ingredients you need are simple, ubiquitous, and few. You will need:


Flour, Milk, Eggs


  • Flour
  • Milk
  • Eggs


Ok, and we're on to the process. Follow closely, even if it's kind of stupid obvious:


Measuring out 1 and a half cups of flour


  • I was feeding myself and one other person when I made these, and I used one and a half cups of flour, plus three eggs. The rule of thumb as my dad tells it is about one egg per person, but an extra egg will often serve you well. A double recipe would probably be good for anything from four to six, depending on hunger and how much else there is for breakfast. Ok, the first thing to do is make some space for the eggs (it doesn't really have to be a "well" per se, like you see in cookbooks. Just put them someplace where they'll all stay together), and then beat them. Try not to mix in too much of the flour yet (or beat the eggs in a separate bowl if you like), because that will probably land you with some very lumpy batter.


Eggs in Flour


Beating Eggs


  • The next step is to add the milk. No, I don't have a measurement for you. The consistency you're aiming for is definitely runny, but with some lingering viscosity. If you're doing this for the first time, I think it's better to err on the side of thickness, because if you make this stuff too thin it's going to be hell when you try and work with it in the pan. If you've made the "other" kind of pancake before, try for a noticeably runnier batter than you're used to, and you'll be on the right track. Then, beat it with your fork until there aren't very many lumps left in it. Some lumps is fine; they'll cook out in the pan, by and large.


Adding milk


The finished product


The finished product, close up


  • The next thing to do is put some canola oil into your pan, which you should set to a medium-highish heat. On my electic stove here a 6.5 seems to be about right. On my gas stove in Ottawa I would heat the pan on high and then turn it down to a 7 or 8, which was probably a little hot. This one is really trial-and-error and I can't help you too too much without knowing the vagaries of your unique stove. When you see a pattern like this start to form, it is time to begin making pancakes!


Hot Oil in Pan


  • I was using a 1/3 cup measure, and it took about 2 or 2 and a half loads to get a full pancake. Probably a 2/3 or 3/4 cup measure is preferable


Batter being poured onto hot pan


  • You'll want to spread the batter out. Using an oven mitt (a good one!) pick up the pan and tilt it in a kind of rotating motion such that the batter pours around the pan in a circular motion. If you don't get full coverage, add more batter to complete the pancake and fill in any holes. It goes without saying that since you're waving around a hot block of iron that you should be extremely careful. Tell everyone else in the kitchen to go bugger off if you must, just don't burn anyone!


Pancake in progress


  • Soon, you should find yourself with something resembling the above. It's not really ready to flip until the top is almost entirely dry (it will be changing colour, you will know when), but once the thing starts looking sturdy enough, start unsticking it from the pan. A note here on oil usage: you needn't replenish the oil in the pan after every pancake, but you should add at least a healthy dollop every 3 or 4 and slosh it around. If there's sufficient oil in the pan and you're not cooking at too high a heat, un-sticking the pancake should not be too hard. A spatula is good for this task, but I accidentally stumbled upon the humble kitchen spoon as an alternative. Again, if you're using a short metal stick next to hot iron, be careful! Now you'll want to do this slowly. Come at the edge obliquely, and sort of pry around wherever it yields most easily, and use the leverage to gradually unstick the whole thing. This will take practice, but you will improve. Probably start with the spatula, just make sure it's kinda slim/sharp. If your pancake tears too readily at the edges, consider thickening the batter with flour. About a quarter-cup at a time is the most I'd reccommend: there's a tipping point and you'll reach it quickly


Unsticking the edge of the pancake with a spoon


  • Now, here's the advanced lesson: flipping the pancake. The easy way is to use your spatula. Get it under the centre of the pancake and heave it over cleanly onto the other side. That's boring. Real pros do it like this:


A very attractive man flips a pancake using only the pan


  • If the pancake is unstuck, it should shimmy about when you slide the pan forward and backward. This is sort of step 1: get comfy. Next is to gently, but firmly make a tossing motion that will send the pancake flipping end over end. You'll get a feel for the balance. The lighter-weight your skillet, the easier it will be. Heavier pans with high walls will take 2 hands, and are probably not ideal for beginners. If you don't feel comfortable with this, DON'T TRY IT. Also, even very good pancake chefs have their bad flips. Have a spatula and knife/spoon/fork handy to detangle any screw-ups (and there were many of these when I was learning. Don't get discouraged; they still taste good with syrup!)


The flipside


  • If you've made it this far, you're doing really well! At this point the pancake doesn't need to cook for much longer, usually no more than a minute. Check the underside: once you see little circles of browned pancake, it's time to get this thing on someone's plate!
  • Maple Syrup is an obvious topping, but by no means stop there. A friend of mine once called my pannekoeken "lacking" in comparison to his brand of sweetened, fluffy pancakes. If your Dutch pancake is lacking in flavour, YOU are lacking in imagination. Fresh or frozen fruit, chocolate shavings, cinnamon/sugar, yogurt, fresh vegetables and cheese/cheese sauce/bechamel sauce/hollandaise sauce, etc - anything's a topping!. Since these are unsweetened, they can be paired with sweet and savoury toppings alike.
  • The final step, of course, is to find a grateful, hungry person to feed these to. Enjoy!


LOUD!

Thursday, September 02, 2010

Thought for Food (2/30)

I think I always have it in the back of my head to post more regularly than I do. That said, I didn't actually decide to do this until fairly recently, so while I want to practice my writing and move outside of my normal topic zone...I don't have a lot of time for research. So what do I do?


Well, it turns out that for a guy who cooks (and is proud of it), I don't actually write about food all that much. At least, not outside of the economy/ethics of food production - and that's really more of an environmentalist analysis. I do ever so occasionally look at food blogs for a recipe or two, but I'm not really into that scene. I think EK is friendly with the author of It Ain't Meat, Babe, a vegan cooking/journal blog. There's that and Not Quite Nigella, from which I got a phenomenal chili spiced brownie* recipe this one time...and, well, that's all I know about food blogs. Guess it's time to spend a week learning some more!


*If you've never tried a chili-chocolate hybrid of any kind, do so ASAP! Chocolate flavour with the burn of chili is a pleasure not to be missed. If you're kind of a spice wuss (as was I, once upon a time) I think a good place to start is with the chili-chocolate bars you can find at the supermarket. They have a pretty mild burn, but they'll give you a good enough idea of whether or not you'll like anything stronger.


Since I am committing to a whole week of posts on a theme (I guess this will be six days because I cheated with a statement of intent on day 1), I'll try to pace myself. Today's post will be a sort of précis, a rhetorical answer to the question "why write about food?".


To that, dear reader, I answer: "Because food is a pretty integral part of the human experience. Part of the experience of being anything living (technically only anything chemohetrotrophic). It has a sensual appeal (both in that we have the sense of taste/smell which is engaged by food, and that there can be an erotic dimension to food and to eating. Furthermore, I enjoy cooking, but I don't recall ever writing about it in particular detail. And finally, because although I'm trying to stretch my boundaries a little here, there are still ethical, economic, and political aspects to the growing, distribution, sale, and consumption of food.".


Being raised in a family of some privilege even within a society that is by and large itself quite well to do, my perspective on food has never really been shaped by scarcity - or even the threat thereof. I might have once missed a meal for misbehaving exceptionally poorly. Maybe I slept through one once, for all I can remember. As a child I recall that I used to watch cooking shows in the morning before Theodore Tugboat or somesuch; there was this jovial man who would always cook his guests a sit-down meal, but I cannot for the life of me remember his name. I don't think I can recall a single dish he ever served. I think the mindset of the cooking show/food column is however illustrative of my relationship to food: one essentially of leisure more than need. Sure, when I'm hungry I'm hungry...but when I think about cooking it's quite often "what would be an interesting challenge to make?" that I'm concerned with. I'm by no means the most pretentious person I have ever met with regards to food (that honour might go our former housemate from Maine?), but even so, recognizing and accepting the privilege that I have had makes holding certain views on food...problematic. I tend to believe that people should eat real food. I'm not a huge fan of things like "artificially-soured" sour cream. Sure it doesn't taste much different, but if we want to follow this path, we might as well just eat a watery sugar/nutrient paste with a plethora of flavour shots in it. I understand that some things lend themselves more readily to industrial processing/manufacture - and thus are likely to be lower in price, hence more affordable. And I get that in the choice between artificially-soured cream and no sour cream at all, you shouldn't go without because someone's paying you too little. But as long as we're on the crutch of artificial flavours and industrial-scale processing, I don't think anyone is going to put a lot of thought or effort into making real food affordable. It still annoys me that "organic" food is a boutique item, rather than a viable choice for anyone of any income who has health concerns about pesticides.


Something that I do belive, and that I intend to expand upon tomorrow, is that everyone should learn to cook. And cook at least something well. It's not only a measure of self-sufficiency, but - like I said - food is an integral part of being human. Not learning how to cook is a little bit like short-changing yourself on sleep; you're probably going to enjoy your days a lot less if you do. Tomorrow, I'll tell you how my role model in this regard was the [fictional] Nate the Great.


Until then, goodnight and good eating.


LOUD!

Some Rights Reserved

Creative Commons License
This work is licenced under a Creative Commons Licence.